I know it is a funny title for the post, but this whole week (week 3) has been exactly that – half-way.
This week we had more classes, which is good, because I am finally getting some vocabulary and more flexibility in terms of what I can talk about – yay, I can now talk about the past and not just about now or what I like (or not) in general.
There were the trips to the mall, and a restaurant, so yes, we've mastered survival Spanish – can order food, buy clothes and shoes, and be somewhat nice about it. And there was dancing – Cumbia!
Wednesday Bud and I joined a couple of colleagues from Javeriana and went to Agua Blanca, the other Cali. This part of the city that is home to over half a million people (of the total 2.5 million in Cali), many of whom are displaced and generally very poor. I must not have been paying a lot of attention when I was getting the memo about this visit, because I thought we were meeting with Fe y Alegria … as a result I definitely stood out – tall, white, in my pretty high heels. I had no idea we were going to Agua Blanca, but I am glad we did. Our hosts at all three sites (where Fe y Alegria works) were generous and lovely people. We first visited a school and community center, then an after-school program, and finally a sports center in the middle of the barrio. The children laughed and took photos with us, the adults eagerly shared stories and experience working in this community. Walking around the narrow streets I could not help but notice the metal bars on the doors and windows; I had a camera, but the feeling of being watched prevented me from taking photos; a few times I mustered enough courage to peer inside through an open window or door into small rooms with sparse furniture, or a set of eyes that reflected my curiosity with guarded depth.
Wednesday afternoon I really have to make an effort to go to music class. It brings me joy, though. German takes sweet revenge as he brought his camera and is taking photos of us making faces. By the way, German, if you are reading this, I am still waiting to see those photos :)
As it turns out (since I am finally making this post 2-3 weeks after originally written) this was our last music class.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
end of the week and la Union
Thursday we resume classes and now in the beginner level we have some changes – Brian and Trileigh moved up and 3 of the novices joined. It is nice to slow down and not be so “immersed” in the Spanish; I'd like to think I am quite comfortable with hearing a different language and being OK with not understanding all; however, trying all day to make sense of not only the words, but the sharing that people engage you in, is tough. Smiling goes a long way, but I also wish I could put together an intelligent sentence that is a decent expression of how I feel, of my attempt to grapple with the intensity of emotion, articulación of solidarity, if you will.
An afternoon class in dance delivers an adequate dose of endorphins that carries me through an evening conversation by the pool with Marc and Martin, but soon wears off and I decide to stay at the Villa Friday morning while my friends go to the Museo del Oro. No, I'm not slacking off, au contraire, I am working on my two online classes, because I literally have to steal, or rather carve out, time to be present – with colleagues here, with my students, with my family.
[Spanish] Word of the day: perdon [is what I need to ask for]
Saturday gives me another opportunity to learn from and together with the communities in Colombia – about community-based leadership and development initiatives. I really need that perspective, because 7 am departure followed by a 3 hour bumpy ride is not my cup of tea. My fellow travelers are in good spirits, though, and the collage below captures some of that spirit.
Our first stop is Buga, the Basilica del Senor de Los Milagros. AND Limonada! (which I ordered all by myself, in Spanish too.)
Lunch is awesome as I get a huge trucha [pink fish that should translate to trout] and get to people-watch as we are eating with the La Union workers. Later we get tagged and given a tour of the vineyards and wine cellar. I manage not to pass out due to the fumes and heat, and practice my Spanish by buying water and discussing the weather with the girl at the counter. We board the bus and I really look forward to returning to the Villa and a deep conversation with my pillow.
[Spanish] Sentence of the day: Me lleve hasta la locura. [Listen to all of Fruta Fresca by Carlos Vives or just take it at face value: 'drive me crazy']
An afternoon class in dance delivers an adequate dose of endorphins that carries me through an evening conversation by the pool with Marc and Martin, but soon wears off and I decide to stay at the Villa Friday morning while my friends go to the Museo del Oro. No, I'm not slacking off, au contraire, I am working on my two online classes, because I literally have to steal, or rather carve out, time to be present – with colleagues here, with my students, with my family.
[Spanish] Word of the day: perdon [is what I need to ask for]
Saturday gives me another opportunity to learn from and together with the communities in Colombia – about community-based leadership and development initiatives. I really need that perspective, because 7 am departure followed by a 3 hour bumpy ride is not my cup of tea. My fellow travelers are in good spirits, though, and the collage below captures some of that spirit.
Our first stop is Buga, the Basilica del Senor de Los Milagros. AND Limonada! (which I ordered all by myself, in Spanish too.)
Lunch is awesome as I get a huge trucha [pink fish that should translate to trout] and get to people-watch as we are eating with the La Union workers. Later we get tagged and given a tour of the vineyards and wine cellar. I manage not to pass out due to the fumes and heat, and practice my Spanish by buying water and discussing the weather with the girl at the counter. We board the bus and I really look forward to returning to the Villa and a deep conversation with my pillow.
[Spanish] Sentence of the day: Me lleve hasta la locura. [Listen to all of Fruta Fresca by Carlos Vives or just take it at face value: 'drive me crazy']
Monday, July 5, 2010
The trip back from Restrepo was long, and after two days of much emotion, the three hours in the mini-van were taking a toll on my patience. When we finally arrived at the Villa, we were greeted by the 6 novices and their superior, who had arrived while we were away. Novices are Jesuits in training, or men who are considering joining the society of Jesus. They all stood up as we entered the Villa and greeted us courteously. I just waived (how rude!) and headed for the quiet of my room. Dinner and a hot shower helped my mood, so later in the evening I could channel that energy to … grading (yes, I'm still teaching).
Wednesday morning, it turned out, we had another trip and a slightly bigger bus/ van was waiting out at 7.45. A great opportunity to show our Villa co-inhabitants (aka novicios) I was not that mean and have (some) social skills. Although, as my friends are well aware, mornings are not the best time for my niceness to shine *grin
We went to a small village, Montebello, just half an hour away from the city of Cali. We visited a school that started 6 years ago with 60 students, mostly children of displaced families. In the last couple of years, the German government has provided funding to support building with guadua, an environment friendly material that is native to the country and looks a lot like bamboo. The school has grown tremendously and has over 300 students now; the school focuses on engaging the whole community, all of the families, including the children in a consultative process about their educational needs; from what we heard and saw, the community is proud and really has ownership of the “colegio.”
It was very moving to see how much the community had achieved with so little, and how much more could be done if they had the resources. The majority of the children there, about 80%, are orphaned and live with sibling groups and/ or relatives. The director told us that they are still working on creating zonaz de paz, or peaceful places/ areas, where the children can relax or experience quiet and peace (as lots of them are scared, not paying attention, and way behind their grade level, as the directora described, or as I could not help diagnose, were symptomatic of psychological trauma).
Now I am back to the house at the Javeriana campus – beautiful grounds, gated area – a strangely rude reminder of my privilege and social status. It is hard to make sense of all this.
[Spanish] Word of the day: descanso [aka what I need but am not getting: rest]
Wednesday morning, it turned out, we had another trip and a slightly bigger bus/ van was waiting out at 7.45. A great opportunity to show our Villa co-inhabitants (aka novicios) I was not that mean and have (some) social skills. Although, as my friends are well aware, mornings are not the best time for my niceness to shine *grin
We went to a small village, Montebello, just half an hour away from the city of Cali. We visited a school that started 6 years ago with 60 students, mostly children of displaced families. In the last couple of years, the German government has provided funding to support building with guadua, an environment friendly material that is native to the country and looks a lot like bamboo. The school has grown tremendously and has over 300 students now; the school focuses on engaging the whole community, all of the families, including the children in a consultative process about their educational needs; from what we heard and saw, the community is proud and really has ownership of the “colegio.”
It was very moving to see how much the community had achieved with so little, and how much more could be done if they had the resources. The majority of the children there, about 80%, are orphaned and live with sibling groups and/ or relatives. The director told us that they are still working on creating zonaz de paz, or peaceful places/ areas, where the children can relax or experience quiet and peace (as lots of them are scared, not paying attention, and way behind their grade level, as the directora described, or as I could not help diagnose, were symptomatic of psychological trauma).
Now I am back to the house at the Javeriana campus – beautiful grounds, gated area – a strangely rude reminder of my privilege and social status. It is hard to make sense of all this.
[Spanish] Word of the day: descanso [aka what I need but am not getting: rest]
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Living with the campesinos
Monday and Tuesday of week two our group went off to Buga and Restrepo, to the north of Cali, to learn about different projects in social responsibility that Javeriana University is involved in. First, we visited the Fundacion Instituto Mayor Campesino (IMCA). This organization is working with a number of partners to help local communities conserve biodiversity. To my understanding (with the little Spanish I have so far), the organization provides education and opportunities for exchange of knowledge, experience, as well as seeds and other local genetic resources, aka plants, animals.
After seeing the IMCA site, we were off to Restrepo, where our group of Colombian and N.American professors was divided in 4 groups. Each group was hosted by a different campesino family in the areas and learned about the organic and sustainable farming methods farmers are using. The group I was in consisted of 9 people. All of us (and our luggage) got loaded on a Jeep, and off we went to our assigned finca, which was a (mainly) tomato farm. The rest of the afternoon was peaceful, the evening – full of hearty food and friendship.
In the morning our hosts let us sleep in, I think. We all finally got up and had breakfast around 8.30. then we wanted to experience life on the finca and our hosts took us to the vegetable garden where we helped by removing the invasive plants. That did not last long, I actually think we spent more time getting ready than work. After a generous lunch, we went to visit with a neighbor family that was working on the finca. The kids were home and took us through the open kitchen, to show us a little garden with beens and herbs they had. We also saw where they made clay/ mud bricks. Very humble, wonderfully welcoming people. As the two kids were posing for me to take a photo many thoughts were rushing through - why are the children not at school, is it safe for them to be alone while their parents are working hard in the neighboring farm, do they get access to basic health care and screening (because the nearest town was at least 15 min drive), and so on.
On the way back I was talking to (trying to would be more accurate as it was in Spanish) Luisa, and reflecting on the resilience and fortitude people here demonstrated. I tried not to cry (at the face of my glaring privilege and inability to help) but be inspired by what this community has achieved despite the circumstances (in Colombia, because of the years of ongoing violence, many farmers are forced by poverty, paramilitaries, druglords, and big international companies to grow crops like coca, which is more profitable than the traditional crops; as a result, the traditional crops are replaced or lost, which leads to even more poverty and devastation to the environment; this community, like a few others in the area, are participating in a project that encourages sustainable farming; more power to them!)
[Spanish] Word of the day: Se puede!
After seeing the IMCA site, we were off to Restrepo, where our group of Colombian and N.American professors was divided in 4 groups. Each group was hosted by a different campesino family in the areas and learned about the organic and sustainable farming methods farmers are using. The group I was in consisted of 9 people. All of us (and our luggage) got loaded on a Jeep, and off we went to our assigned finca, which was a (mainly) tomato farm. The rest of the afternoon was peaceful, the evening – full of hearty food and friendship.
In the morning our hosts let us sleep in, I think. We all finally got up and had breakfast around 8.30. then we wanted to experience life on the finca and our hosts took us to the vegetable garden where we helped by removing the invasive plants. That did not last long, I actually think we spent more time getting ready than work. After a generous lunch, we went to visit with a neighbor family that was working on the finca. The kids were home and took us through the open kitchen, to show us a little garden with beens and herbs they had. We also saw where they made clay/ mud bricks. Very humble, wonderfully welcoming people. As the two kids were posing for me to take a photo many thoughts were rushing through - why are the children not at school, is it safe for them to be alone while their parents are working hard in the neighboring farm, do they get access to basic health care and screening (because the nearest town was at least 15 min drive), and so on.
On the way back I was talking to (trying to would be more accurate as it was in Spanish) Luisa, and reflecting on the resilience and fortitude people here demonstrated. I tried not to cry (at the face of my glaring privilege and inability to help) but be inspired by what this community has achieved despite the circumstances (in Colombia, because of the years of ongoing violence, many farmers are forced by poverty, paramilitaries, druglords, and big international companies to grow crops like coca, which is more profitable than the traditional crops; as a result, the traditional crops are replaced or lost, which leads to even more poverty and devastation to the environment; this community, like a few others in the area, are participating in a project that encourages sustainable farming; more power to them!)
[Spanish] Word of the day: Se puede!
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
My first week in Colombia
On Tuesday, bright and early, all nine of us marched to the campus, a three minute walk. El Rector welcomed us and introduced to us the EFE team, i.e. all of the teachers and staff that are going to help us learn Spanish and Colombian culture. Javeriana Cali has a beautiful campus on the south edge of the city. As we were walking around, lo and behold, la iguana! IGUANA – I screamed at it from above (iguanas cannot hear well) and she just gave me a confused stare. I curbed my desire to hug it and walked on by.
Joanne let me borrow one of her books: Alfredo Molano's Desterrados
[Spanish] Word of the day: si!
I am in level Basico – Spanish classes run from 8.30 am to noon, starting with grammar and then conversation. In the afternoons we have different cultural activities, like music appreciation workshop (Wednesdays and Fridays) and dance classes (Thursday). Wednesday I meet German for the first time. The G in his name is pronounced as the h in him and the stress is on a. Why am I so particular about how to pronounce his name? Well, because one of the things that he helps us with is pronouncing correctly Spanish sounds. His first choice was easy for me – the elle, or L, I can do it – hey, my name is Lazi, no? Oh, but what a headache, the next sound was erre, R, which for most Bulgarians is easy. How hard is it to roll an r? For those of you who haven't heard me try it – German sounds like an enraged tiger, and I, like a dashing baby cheetah.
[Spanish] Word of the day: CARO (dear, espensive) or was it carro (car) … well, 'BMW' will cover it all :)
This Thursday = verbos!
We learned about 20 or so verbs in the present tense. The afternoon was much more fun as we got to pick different fruits and make sal picon, which here in Cali means a number of colorful fruits chopped finely, with orange or other citrus juice. After this refreshing exercise, Arriba! and on to dance class with Jenny. Jenny is awesomely cool and after showing us some of the basic salsa steps, she had a surprise for us – her students performed Cumbia.
[Spanish] Word of the day: delicioso
Friday was way too much of everything in the morning – heat, sights and smells, words, people. A la tarde, music with German. He brought a beautiful, beautiful Colombian song, Navidad Negra, for us to learn. Let's just say that I need much more practice... the year of solfège I had to take when I was 8-9 apparently left very traumatic impressions on me when asked to sing in public [Note: but even as I type I'm screaming 'here they come, the beautiful ones, lalalala... you don't think about it, you don't do without it, because you're beautiful...' (Suede)]
[Spanish] Word of the day: precioso [beautiful, of course]
Saludos cariñosos,
Lazi
Joanne let me borrow one of her books: Alfredo Molano's Desterrados
[Spanish] Word of the day: si!
I am in level Basico – Spanish classes run from 8.30 am to noon, starting with grammar and then conversation. In the afternoons we have different cultural activities, like music appreciation workshop (Wednesdays and Fridays) and dance classes (Thursday). Wednesday I meet German for the first time. The G in his name is pronounced as the h in him and the stress is on a. Why am I so particular about how to pronounce his name? Well, because one of the things that he helps us with is pronouncing correctly Spanish sounds. His first choice was easy for me – the elle, or L, I can do it – hey, my name is Lazi, no? Oh, but what a headache, the next sound was erre, R, which for most Bulgarians is easy. How hard is it to roll an r? For those of you who haven't heard me try it – German sounds like an enraged tiger, and I, like a dashing baby cheetah.
[Spanish] Word of the day: CARO (dear, espensive) or was it carro (car) … well, 'BMW' will cover it all :)
This Thursday = verbos!
We learned about 20 or so verbs in the present tense. The afternoon was much more fun as we got to pick different fruits and make sal picon, which here in Cali means a number of colorful fruits chopped finely, with orange or other citrus juice. After this refreshing exercise, Arriba! and on to dance class with Jenny. Jenny is awesomely cool and after showing us some of the basic salsa steps, she had a surprise for us – her students performed Cumbia.
[Spanish] Word of the day: delicioso
Friday was way too much of everything in the morning – heat, sights and smells, words, people. A la tarde, music with German. He brought a beautiful, beautiful Colombian song, Navidad Negra, for us to learn. Let's just say that I need much more practice... the year of solfège I had to take when I was 8-9 apparently left very traumatic impressions on me when asked to sing in public [Note: but even as I type I'm screaming 'here they come, the beautiful ones, lalalala... you don't think about it, you don't do without it, because you're beautiful...' (Suede)]
[Spanish] Word of the day: precioso [beautiful, of course]
Saludos cariñosos,
Lazi
Friday, June 18, 2010
The arrival
My trip to Cali, Colombia began on a red eye to Miami. The dinky 5-hour flight was followed by a 9 hour layover in MIA, where I managed to get a lot of work done, but not any decent coffee. Alas, not an impressive start, but I changed into a pink Gonzaga tee and the remaining three hours to Cali were quite pleasant.
The 'final descent' to Cali was around that time when the sun has set, but the oranges of a few rays are still flaring. The 737 plunged into a wet dark-gray and rocked steadily for a few minutes. Soon I could make the lights of the city below, which blackened and flickered in an awesome incandescent oranges and blues. Inferno, my tired brain concluded, and then suddenly, a brilliant streak slashed the darkness, and it took me a few moments to realize I was looking at the sky peering through the gray veil of the storm.
Immigration – the semi-disinterested officer gave me a stamp of approval after looking at my visa and my tentative “soy professora” attempt at explaining my visit. A gorgeous lab sniffed my luggage and hand, and proceeded to another suitcase, without considering my invitation to play. My tee spoke louder, later on, when I was greeted by what turned out to be our driver. Gonzaga, vamos!, he exclaimed and I found myself sitting next to his wife and three kids in a minivan, accompanied by Yelena, a colleague from University of San Francisco, who had arrived on the same flight.
Villa Javier is where I and the 8 other colleagues on various exchange missions will be living for the duration of our stay (33 days in my case). Upon arrival, Adriana, showed me to my room and offered me a sandwich, which she emphasized with a smile was vegetarian. I ate my sandwich, thanked Adriana, went to my room, took a shower, and passed out on one of the two single beds in my room.
[Spanish] Word of the day: entiendes?
No, but I'll write about that tomorrow.
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